After spending a very rolly night and day in Cala San Vicente, Ibiza, we could take no more. Lynne was beginning to feel a bit queasy and had to wear her seasickness watch. This threw up (pun intended) a number of choices... stay put and ride it out, look for an anchorage on the other side of the island, or leave soon for Mallorca.
Having looked at the weather again (forecasts seem to change by the hour) it revealed that the swell would continue into the bay for the next few days at least. Contrastingly, the conditions in Palma bay, Mallorca looked ideal.
Decision made, we conjured up a snack and Lynne updated the chart and popped the waypoints into the plotter. We then had the difficult task of getting the tender back on deck. 3 pairs of arms would have come in useful, and the air was blue with cursing as it swung first one way and then another. From the nearby beach it would have been a good spectator sport!
We use the spinnaker halyard to haul the tender onto the foredeck which in flat calm conditions works well for us. It has made us stop and think about davits so we can lift the tender onto the stern. Perhaps something we will investigate further when we are in our winter marina. We also find the genoa sheets sometimes snag on the tender when tacking, which is annoying at best, and could even be dangerous in rough sees as it means going forward to sort it out.
We left the bay under engine at around 7.30pm and headed ENE into the open sea. No sooner than we were out of the Cala, our speed dropped to just a knot or so, despite being in forward gear with about 1400rpm showing. Steve popped the engine into neutral, engaged reverse and then went back into forward again. This time there were no issues and the speed soon picked up (more on this topic later as it happened again).
After we had headed into wind and unfurled the mainsail, we engaged the autohelm and set the genoa once the course had settled. We had an unusually consistent 12 to 15 knot wind about 60 degrees off the starboard bow which ended up lasting for most of the night. This afforded us our best sail of the season so far.
As the sun fell the swell became much greater than before, but the waves were long spaced like Atlantic rollers, so not uncomfortable and in fact unlocked memories of our Biscay crossing. Sitting in the cockpit looking back gave the best view as we glided along in an exhilarating way, up and down the swell.
By midnight the full moon broke through the clouds to starboard and the view was soporific to say the least. We were shifting through the water averaging over 6 knots with the occasional plume of spray running down the side decks. We had rigged up the sea berth in the saloon so we afforded ourselves a couple of hours sleep on each watch.
Night sailing is so serene, well in the conditions that particular night anyway. Our only issue was that we were making such good time towards Mallorca that we actually needed to slow down! We should say at this juncture that we passage plan at 5 knots, which is normally about right for a fully laden cruising yacht like ours. This means our calculations for arrival times at destinations are based on covering 5 nautical miles in one hour, so we work out our passage planning backwards. In other words the optimum time of arrival, and set our departure time accordingly.
We did not relish arriving at an anchorage in the dark so we took in some sail and dropped the speed down. It is useful to anchor in daylight if at all possible, as we can usually see the bottom. Finding a sandy spot is preferable to rocks or weed anyday. This season we have witnessed many boats who have caught their anchors on rocks.
We had a brief visit during the night from a swordfish, and later on a lone dolphin, but apart from that the night was uneventful. Not cold enough to warrant layers and layers, but not exactly shorts and t-shirts either. In anycase we always wear our lifejackects when night sailing, and clip on with the harness for peace of mind.
Almost as soon as the sun came up the next day we could see the coast of Malllorca clearly. By 8am we rounded the lighthouse into Palma bay and swung well inshore to stay out of the way of the cruise ships and ferries. On the way up it seemed rude not to pop by into Magaluf bay. A lone yacht was at anchor and the town looked very quiet, no doubt as most of it's occupants would be nursing a hangover!
We carried on past Palma Nova bay which looked very pretty, however too much rock and weed to anchor so we continued to a spot off the beach at Puerto Portals, just next to a very exclusive marina. We dropped the anchor in 5 metres of water and watched it fall to a nice sandy bottom, popped the anchor alarm on, rigged the anchor buoy, had breakfast, and went to sleep for the rest of the morning.
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| Peurto Portals anchorage |
Lynne was awoken later by a voice over a loudspeaker and went into the cockpit to investigate. She discovered that there was a Seaworld type park backing onto the beach. There was a dolphin display going on, and every now and then she could hear the "oohs" and "aahs" from the audience as they marveled at the display. Next was the sealion show, followed by the exotic bird show. All these were accompanied by some great music. It was quite amusing during our stay here to hear the sealion barking during the night, and being woken up to the sound of parrots squawking in the early morning.
Puerto Portals, according to our Pilot Book, is one of the most expensive marinas in the Mediterranean. Every day we watch as superyachts pop in and out. One day, yacht Eos dropped anchor close by. At over 300 feet long, she is the world's largest privately owned yacht. On another day, a yacht about 80 feet long anchored, and the owners had the staff bring up their gym equipment onto the deck, then they had a workout. It did seem odd seeing a rowing machine in use and a large boxing bag hanging from the boom! We did check, but sadly there is no room on Scarlet Lady for a gym!
Most of these superyachts and gin palaces have plenty of toys onboard too - jet skis, canoes, ribs etc. However, we saw something new to us here... a German boat had a device that propelled a man into the air on a jet of water. Very James Bond!
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| Rocket man |
On taking the dinghy ashore, we were pleased to find a metal loop in a low lying concrete wall at the back of the beach. This was perfect for chaining the dinghy to. Just a short stroll past Marineland, we found a Tabac where we topped up our Vodafone dongle, and a wifi cafe where we caught up on some emails. We discovered there was a bus stop too, where we could get a bus into Palma. The lady in the Tabac also told us there was a large Mercadona supermarket about a 15 minute walk away. (Actually took us more like 30 mins but still not too far and with no gym on board it was good to get the exercise).
We were happy with the settled conditions and the fact we had somewhere secure to leave the dinghy, so the following day we took the bus into Palma and caught the 1912 vintage train into the pretty, old town of Soller on the north of the island.
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| A vintage Steve on a vintage train |
The journey took about an hour and the scenery was spectacular in places, as the train trundled through the Serra Tramuntana mountains. Sadly though, due to a mishap with our camera (it turns out it wasn't waterproof, don't ask!), we had no camera to take any photos. We did however, have a camera phone which we used to take some shots but apologies for the quality which isn't great.
Whilst in Soller, we had a lovely lunch and shared a dessert - ice cream made to look like spaghetti bolognaise. Delicious!
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| Spaghetti ice cream |
Back in Palma we saw the cathedral, and looked out over to the many marinas there.
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| Palma seafront |
On the way back to the bus, a detour to a department store was made and Steve bought Lynne a new camera for her birthday, a Canon Ixus, and so far we are really pleased with the results.
Before we left the anchorage, we did a provisioning trip to the Mercadona and on Lynne's birthday, took the bus into Magaluf for a night out. We wanted to see what all the fuss was about and whether it lived up to its reputation. We had dinner on the seafront and then took a walk up 'The Strip'. There were plenty of Stag and Hen parties in fancy dress, and apart from seeing the odd drunk reveler, all we saw was people out having a good time. However, it was still only 10pm and would probably be another story altogether by 3am the next morning!
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| Magaluf at night |
Our next stop was Santa Ponsa. Just outside the marina was a large, well protected anchorage and once again, we were able to anchor in very clear water in sand. Lynne always puts her snorkel and mask on once we have anchored, and swims out to check the anchor has dug in well. It always helps when the water is clear and not too choppy.
Santa Ponsa is a busy tourist town with a lovely large bay, numerous restaurants, and an Eroski supermarket just a short walk away. The resort is very German orientated and Lynne felt like she was living back in Berlin with all the German shops and restaurants, and hearing nearly everyone speak German. Steve was quite taken with Santa Ponsa and took the opportunity to pick up a property brochure from an Estate Agent. He saw several lovely villas that could be yours for a cool 20 million Euros!
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| View towards Santa Ponsa and anchorage |
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| A packed beach at Santa Ponsa |
We both enjoy creating dishes using whatever food we have available between food shops. Lynne's speciality is Soda bread which is very quick and easy to make, as well as her own version of a Spanish tortilla using up some potatoes, onions, eggs and chorizo. For an extra kick, she added some crushed chilli flakes. Yummy!
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| Very tasty! |
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| Boat bread |
We had really enjoyed our time in Santa Ponsa, and reluctantly headed up to the north coast to the anchorage at Puerto de Soller. This coastline is really stunning, and Jurassic Park in appearance. We had no wind that day, so sadly had to motor.
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| Relaxed crew |
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| Stunning coastline |
The anchorage at Soller was extremely crowded, but we managed to find a space.
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| Soller anchorage |
Lynne checked the anchor and was quite happy as it was buried in a large patch of sand. She noticed that closer into the shore it was more rocky, and there was quite a lot of weed on the sea bed.
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| Soller Marina |
Puerto de Soller is a very pretty place and there are several nice restaurants, small supermarkets, a launderette, and a chandlery shop all on the seafront. We got a new Camping Gaz bottle from the chandlers for 19 Euros. From the port, you can get an electric tram into the town of Soller a few miles inland. The journey takes about 20 minutes each way.
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| Tram in Soller |
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| Evening at anchor |
The following day started off calm, so we decided to row the dinghy ashore and leave the outboard motor on the boat. Big mistake! The wind picked up steadily whilst we were ashore, and by the time we tried to row the dinghy back to the boat, it was gusting 15-18 knots of wind. As the yacht was approximately 350 metres from the shore, we knew it was going to be a challenge, and we were right. We were rowing hard but every time a gust of wind hit us head on, we started to drift backwards. After an exhausting 20 minutes, we were still only two thirds of the way there. We managed to grab hold of a small fishing boat that was on a mooring buoy to get our breath back.
We noticed a Beneteau Oceanis had dragged its anchor in the windy conditions, and the owners where nowhere to be seen. The yacht had ended up broadside to a small motor boat which was on a mooring buoy, and was pinned hard to it. A man from another nearby yacht was soon on deck and managed to secure the yacht in such a way to minimise any further damage. We managed to attract his attention and in our best Spanish he understood another rescue mission was needed, in this case a tow to our boat which he duly gave.
Later that evening we popped over to thank him, and gave him a bottle of wine for his troubles.
On leaving Soller, we planned to sail to the anchorage at Cala San Vicente (yes, this island has one too!), as there was going to be a fiesta on at the weekend in honour of La Virgen del Mar. It was another calm and windless day, so once again we were under motor. En-route to our intended anchorage, we decided to take a look at Cala de la Calobra (Torrente de Pareis), as the pilot book describes it as being spectacular. It didn't disappoint, and was straight out of a film set.
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| What a place! |
Just as we were leaving the Cala, Steve had to put the engine into neutral to slow us down and allow a yacht to pass in front of us. When he went to put the engine in gear again, nothing happened! The engine was revving away but we were making no speed. The forward gear had not engaged. Being so close to cliffs was not good, but fortunately, there was a bit of current taking us away from shore, and just enough wind to fill the sails. Steve turned the engine off, waited a few minutes and then turned it back on again. Luckily for us, this time he managed to engage forward gear.
We considered our options and after consulting the Pilot Book, phoned the nearest Yanmar agents (Yanmar is the make of our engine/gearboox). Alcudia marina had Yanmar engineers. We decided the best course of action would be to motor straight there and anchor off until we could go ashore on the Monday morning to speak to the engineers. It was a shame that we would be missing out on a fiesta, but we simply couldn't risk anchoring in Cala San Vicente and not being able to leave when the time came.
There was plenty of room to anchor outside the marina in Alcudia and no swell for a change. We both enjoyed a swim to cool off. That evening, we took the dinghy into the marina and tied up to the fuel pontoon. We familiarised ourselves with where the Yanmar agents were and took a walk into the resort. It was very crowded and a definite tourist resort. Not to our liking, but the beach is pretty. Just outside the marina there was a display by some Spanish folk singers and dancers, so we stopped to watch for a while.
We had a thoroughly relaxing weekend at anchor, doing very little apart from swimming, eating and reading. Talking of reading, our Kindles have really come into their own this year. Our 3G versions also mean we can check out weather forecasts on the built in browser, which is very useful and free!
On Monday morning we called in at the Yanmar dealers and explained the issue. To cut a long story short, we had used the wrong grade and type of oil in the gearbox. Since changing it everything is back to how it should be, and lessons learned for the future.
Alcudia bay is huge and we spent the next couple of days just sailing around and enjoying being on the water. We backtracked and did nip round the corner to visit Pollensa, and ended up spending a few nights there too. It was just as we were anchoring that the noise of a plane distracted us by landing a short distance away!
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| Interesting sights in Pollensa bay |
Pollensa old town is very charming and well worth a visit. It is only a short 12 minute bus ride from the port.
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| Just add cocktails |
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| About 300 steps to get to the top |
The last night of our stay coincided with the end of a local festival, which was celebrated with a huge fireworks display at midnight... very timely as it marked the start of Steve's birthday.
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| Festival In Pollensa |
Before leaving Mallorca we visited the 24 hour marina fuel berth in Alcudia to top up both the diesel and water tanks. Despite the fact we have had to motor a fair amount, our fuel consumption is working out at a very frugal 1.5 litres per hour.
We would have liked to have spent longer in Mallorca, but time is marching on and we still have many miles to cover. It would be possible to spend a whole season in the Balearics, so we hope to come back sometime in the future and do just that.
And so on to the smallest of the islands, Menorca, which follows in the next update.
